Ichihara's Umbrellas: Decorating the Streets of Japan with the Fashion of Europe
Umbrellas are a part of people's daily lives, serving both as protection from precipitation and a fashion item. Western-style umbrellas were first introduced to Japan in 1854, as the country began to open after centuries of isolation. Arriving with the first Western ships, by the 1870s they had become popular as fashionable items for the wealthy. By the mid-1920s they were widely accessible and used day-to-day, including as a modern accessory for sunny weather.
In 1946, with the surge in economic activity during post-WWII reconstruction, Ichihara was founded as a retailer of men's goods like belts and suspenders. Selling wholesale to department stores was the primary business, but the company’s founder saw that there were almost no men’s umbrellas on the market and decided to do something about the situation. In 1968, the company began producing and selling artisan-handicrafted men’s umbrellas that combined authentic European design with features well suited to the climate of Japan.
The company’s umbrellas are distinguished by a technique known as “Tani-Ochi-Bari”. This stitching connects the fabric between each rib in a graceful curve, an Ichihara’s innovation. The supple, bat-wing-like look conveys at a glance Ichihara’s refined aesthetic sense and unrivaled craftsmanship.
Umbrella Making Means Working With Needle and Thread, Fabric and Frame
When you sign up for the experience, you’ll be asked to choose the fabric you use. Our artisans then sew your fabric into the form required for an umbrella before you visit. There are a total of four types of patterns to choose from, reminiscent of traditional British design. When deciding, you might imagine yourself walking down the street with this umbrella.
At the shop, the experience will begin with a talk on the history of Tokyo Umbrellas and the techniques used at Ichihara. After this introduction, you will begin sewing, one of the important umbrella-making steps.
You’ll start off using a sewing machine. Ichihara uses sewing machines made by Pegasus, a company founded in 1914.
They are built to the same specifications as American-made Singer machines, and are still an important part of Tokyo Umbrella production today. Constant companions in the production of Ichihara umbrellas over the years, these machines convey the spirit of traditional craftsmanship found in the idea of using quality items over long periods of time.
For the sewing portion of the experience, you’ll use the same fabric that will become the canopy of the umbrella you’ll take home. The pattern you pre-selected will have already been hand-stitched by an artisan into the shape needed for an eight-rib umbrella. Referring to the sections already sewn, you’ll continue the process, sewing the remaining pieces of fabric to the ribs.
This sewing process consists of two steps: tip attachment and center stitching. The tip is the topmost part of the umbrella that precipitation falls away from. Having the right tension for the umbrella canopy depends on how securely the fabric is stitched to this tip. Center stitching fastens the fabric to the ribs, giving the canopy its unified form. The fine needlework requires a level of concentration rarely found in daily life. As your attention focuses on the needle and thread, the fabric and ribs, you may find a moment to quietly encounter yourself away from the noise of the outside world.
The final part of the experience is making the top lining. This is the piece of fabric that covers the star-shaped area at the umbrella’s apex. It also plays an important role in preventing friction between the runners and fabric when the umbrella is closed, helping to extend its service life.
Once the heavy hand press cut fabric is set on the inside of the canopy, your umbrella will be complete. Holding this umbrella you’ve made with your own hands, you’ll feel both the accomplishment of having worked on it until completion and the satisfaction of having something uniquely your own.
Always by your side, an umbrella can be a partner through your life
Beyond being ordinary items, umbrellas handmade one by one can be considered works of art. Such umbrellas can be used for many years, even decades. If you take care of your umbrella, it may become a life partner that stands by you in any weather.
Ms. Masako Okuda, the fourth generation proprietor, says "Using your favorite umbrella will lift your spirit even on a rainy day. I hope you will cherish the umbrella you carefully crafted yourself, and find pleasure in using it.” Rain or shine, you’ll be able to enjoy using your special umbrella while remembering the traditions and techniques you encountered during your experience.
